1997, Oceanography 10(2):85–89, http://dx.doi.org/10.5670/oceanog.1997.31

The Ocean Wave Directional Spectrum

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Author

Lucy R. Wyatt | Sheffield Centre for Earth Observation Science School of Mathematics and Statistics, University of Sheffield, Sheffield, UK

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First Paragraph

The directional spectrum S(k) [or S(f,θ)] measures the distribution of wave energy in wave number, k, (or frequency, f) and direction. Different contributions to local wave energy, e.g., swell from distant storms and locally wind-generated waves, can be identified in a measurement of the directional spectrum (see Fig. 1). The direction of propagation of wave energy and the period (l/f) of the most energetic waves are important for many practical applications, e.g., the design and operation of coastal and offshore structures and storm surge forecasts.

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Full Article

1.87 MB pdf

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Citation

Wyatt, L.R. 1997. The ocean wave directional spectrum. Oceanography 10(2):85–89, http://dx.doi.org/10.5670/oceanog.1997.31.

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