| Oceanography > Issues > Archive > Volume 15 > Issue 1 |
2002, Oceanography 15(1):67–76, http://dx.doi.org/10.5670/oceanog.2002.37
The Integrated Ocean Prediction System (IOPS)
Authors | Introduction | Full Article | Citation
Authors
Richard A. Allard | Naval Research Laboratory, Stennis Space Center, Mississippi, USA
James Kaihatu | Naval Research Laboratory, Stennis Space Center, Mississippi, USA
Y. Larry Hsu | Naval Research Laboratory, Stennis Space Center, Mississippi, USA
James D. Dykes | Naval Oceanographic Office, Stennis Space Center, Mississippi, USA
Introduction
Knowledge of wave and surf conditions can play a major role in planning and executing a successful amphibious assault on a targeted beach (Figure 1). The dynamic surf zone is affected by waves that may have propagated from long distances (swell) and by refraction, which causes waves to become aligned with depth contours as they approach the coast. Local wind waves and tides can also change the character and width of the surf zone. Local bathymetry (e.g. beach profiles) can change dramatically due to wave action from storms. Offshore bars can form and migrate due to seasonal changes in wave dynamics and surf conditions. Accurate predictions of surf processes are dependent on models that contain the appropriate physics, and realistic environmental inputs to these models.
A wave-tide-surf modeling system has been developed to support naval operations in littoral waters. The Integrated Ocean Prediction System (IOPS) provides integrated wave information from deep to shallow water into the surf zone. IOPS is composed of four component models: (1) the Wave Action Model (WAM); (2) two shallow-water wave models (steadystate wave model, STWAVE, and the REFraction/DIFfraction Model, REFDIF); (3) two tidal models (ADvanced CIRCulation Model, ADCIRC, and the US Navy Relocatable Tide/Surge Prediction System-PCTIDES); and (4) the Navy Standard Surf Model (NSSM). Different physical processes and spatial scales affecting wave conditions across shallow-water regions are considered when these models are used. In addition, the modeling techniques delineate surf characteristics that may vary substantially along stretches of coast.
Full Article
Citation
Allard, R.A., J. Kiahatu, Y.L. Hsu, and J.D. Dykes. 2002. The Integrated Ocean Prediction System (IOPS). Oceanography 15(1):67–76, http://dx.doi.org/10.5670/oceanog.2002.37.