| Oceanography > Issues > Archive > Volume 18 > Issue 2 |
2005, Oceanography 18(2):261–262, http://dx.doi.org/10.5670/oceanog.2005.65
BOOK REVIEW | Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing
Book Information | Reviewer | First Paragraph | Full Review | Citation
Book Information
Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing
By Tony Butt and Paul Russel with Rick Grigg, The University of Hawaii Press, 2004, 144 pages, Paperback, ISBN 0824828917, $32 US
Reviewer
David F. Naar | College of Marine Science, University of South Florida, St. Petersburg, FL, USA
First Paragraph
Reading and reviewing this book is one of my more memorable moments as a scientist and a surfer. I actually read it while flying over the Pacific Ocean and going to sea on the R/V Atlantis from Easter Island to Tahiti. I had plenty of opportunities to look at the ocean and relate to the descriptions provided, such as crossing ground swells, short period seas, and capillary waves forming on a calm, glassy sea. As a professor in oceanography and a surfer, I thought I had a pretty good understanding of how swells and waves formed before I read this book. Now I realize that there is much more to know and that details related to the transfer of wind energy to ocean swell energy are still not understood.
Full Review
Citation
Naar, D.F. 2005. Review of Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing, by T. Butt and P. Russel with R. Grigg. Oceanography 18(2):261–262, http://dx.doi.org/10.5670/oceanog.2005.65.